Decorative Pair WUB1322-4 7.87" x 7.3"


WoodUbend high-definition moldings are unique! They have all the properties of
wood and, in addition, can be molded to any contour after heating up with
something as simple as a hair dryer. They can be drilled, sanded, glued,
painted, stained, varnished, or distressed and can be adhered to almost any
surface, contoured or flat.



This product is an authentic interior design material which allows for the
fast creation of truly stunning aesthetics. It is used by crafters, up-cyclers,
interior designers, artists, sculptors, and manufacturers.

WoodUbend Mouldings are, unquestionably, a very innovative product and, once
you’ve got the know-how, they’re super simple to use. I understand though, for
the uninitiated, they may seem a little daunting – don’t fret though – just
keep in mind a few things and you’ll be creating some seriously cool projects
in no time.

The mouldings, in their cool state act completely like wood, they can be
sanded, stained, painted, drilled, etc…warm them up though and the fun starts,
you can bend them, slice them even stretch them or cut them with scissors!

Any way you look at it, to get the most out of your mouldings, you’re going to
want to get used to warming them, even if you’re not bending them around a
surface. The surface you’re adhering to is unlikely to be completely flat and
the back of the moulding certainly won’t be. As heating the moulding makes it
flexible, this means that you’re going to get a better contact with the surface
when you’re gluing it down.

Indeed, warming your moulding helps the glue work much better too, a warm
moulding will soak up some of the glue and this really helps the moulding to
grip to the surface.

Speaking of glue…

Wood glue, wood glue, wood glue
I really can’t stress this enough, I’ve seen people use super glue, PVA, No
More Nails, you name it, I've seen it. To really stick these mouldings down,
you need a good quality, flexible wood glue. I often use Titebond Quick &
Thick, it’s quick acting and a good, thick glue – as the name would suggest.
Using something else, certainly an inflexible glue could result in your
mouldings just popping off down the line. This is because as the expand and
contract with the ambient temperature (as all wood does) the glue is not
flexible to move with it and will fail. Not something you want…especially if
you’re flipping furniture, there’s a good chance you’ll be fielding some angry
calls.

When applying your glue, it’s fine (and often easier) to cover the substrate,
rather than your mouldings, in the glue. If you elect to apply your glue
straight on the back of the mouldings, ensure you have coated the whole back of
the moulding – none of this a dab here and there. Nope! You want the whole back
of the moulding covered.

Now, when sticking it to the surface, you’re going to want to give it another
blast with the heat – at this point, you may notice some glue leaking out of
the sides. Don’t panic! This is a good thing; this means it is working and the
moulding is really squeezing onto the surface. Just wipe the excess away with a
wet paint brush, baby wipe or cotton bud and you’re good to go.